Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
